One of my final London Fashion Week shows was Maria Grachvogel at Somerset House. A designer for me that always creates gorgeous pieces, generally flowing gowns and jumpsuits with strong prints, but always leaves me wanting to see more.
For spring/summer 2014, there did seem to be more of a focus on silhouette than on her signature prints, which were still out in force in this collection. Citing an unnamed ‘young artist’ as her inspiration, this collection was born out of her expression of “youthful innocence and creative freedom” according to the shownotes, which was showcased in the fluid, free-flowing garments and a brush stroke-inspired swirl print.
For me this collection was more sophisticated and mature than youthful, but not in a negative way, Maria Grachvogel knows who her audience is and this collection will certainly appeal to her affluent customers.
My favourite pieces had to be the slouchy designs, from the loose jumpsuit with wide trouser legs to the billowing sleeveless shirts, and the gorgeous floaty swirl printed dress towards the end. I also adored the details in the draped panels, the cross-panel neck detailing, the deep sensual V necklines, and the kimono-type sleeves.
As with most of the collections this fashion week pink played a part, this time the hue was more dusky and transparent like a watercolour, and worked perfectly against the neutral tones of the clay and putty.
I don’t think this collection will take many people’s breath-away, it is what it is, but there did seem to be more about her latest line than prints and draping, which was nice to see – also it was good to see Chloe Nørgaard’s bright green hair on the runway!!!
